What is a razor cut?
The razor cut is a tremendously popular technique for providing texture to a hair style. Although it has been used since the very first bob to create an edgy look and has been a traditional technique in many Asian culture for a very long time, it is still shrouded in mystery. How exactly does a razor cut differ from a cut created with shears and how much training should a practitioner using a razor have? Finally what should a client expect when they receive a razor cut? We will answer all of these questions for you and bring the razor out of the drawer so to speak.
To begin, let’s discuss the difference between a razor and shears in the way that they cut the hair. A razor should be used at a 45° angle to the hair shaft creating a cut that is at a 45° angle at the hair end. This angle of cut creates a smooth transition between layers, a choppy or disconnected texture, or a style with ends that flip in or out. In contrast, shears should cut the hair at a 0° angle to hair shaft creating a flat surface on the hair end as opposed to an angled end. This angle of cut creates an even hair length.
Which is better, the razor or the shear?
At first it would appear that a razor is a more versatile tool than the shears, however, it is important to note that shears are really two razors placed together with a hinge joining them together. While the razor is limited to a single angle of cut when used properly, the shear is used at many angles of cut to create the same effects that are achieved by the razor. This is very important because not everyone is a candidate for the razor cut.
A razor cut is not for curly, wavy or thin hair.
A razor used properly will only be used to add texture to straight and thick hair. When a razor is used on thin, wavy, or curly hair, then the practitioner does not really understand the mechanics of how a razor cuts hair and what hair structures will best accommodate this technique.
A razor cut is really a misnomer. In reality it is a microscopic tear, which is why a razor cut feels so much different than a cut made with a shear. Due to this tearing action of the razor combined with the angle of cut on the hair, the hair end is predisposed to splitting. Straight hair has a very round and robust shaft that minimizes the damage done by the razor allowing the style to achieve the desired effect. Curly or wavy hair does not have a round and robust shaft and is flat when compared to straight hair (much like a coiled ribbon) causing it to behave differently when it is cut with a razor. This along with the mechanics of the razor cut will create a style that is very frizzy and is not dissimilar to what you might experience with a large number of split end because in reality the hair ends were split by the razor.
This result is similar when a razor is used on thin hair for the very same reason, only in this case it is the diameter of the hair shaft that contributed to the undesired result. Care should also be taken with a client who has thinning hair as any amount of texturizing is going to decrease the number of individual hairs on the head and it is very difficult to create a textured style that is not flat. In this case a razor is absolutely not the best tool to create the desired result. Because shears are much more versatile than the razor a knowledgeable and experienced stylist will know when and why to use a razor.
Why does my stylist always use a razor?
Any stylist who picks up a razor to cut a clients hair should first be well versed in using shears. Meaning that they should be able to easily create any style that a razor would be used for with shears. A razor is a short cut to getting a particular result, not a half-measure. Only when the shears have been mastered should a stylist consider using a razor. Unfortunately many stylists have learned to master masking poor technique with a shattered perimeter that was created with the razor.
To achieve the best results, a stylist should be trained by a master stylist who is knowledgeable and experienced with both shears and a razor. The biggest factor in deciding whether to use a razor or shears is time. A razor can create the same results as a shear, but much more quickly when used on the correct hair types.
Be cautious of stylists who want to use a razor on you. Make sure that they are knowledgeable and experienced; ask them to create the style with shears the first time and then move on to the razor for your next cut. If they can’t or won’t, chances are they should not be using a razor at all. If you have thin, wavy, or curly hair don’t ever let a stylist talk you into a razor cut. At Dragonfly by Ginger Exclusive Salon, we do not use razors as a regular practice, by insisting that every client must have their hair textured with a razor. We find that shears are a much more versatile tool that when combined with knowledge and practice of proper technique create any style. In essence we believe that shears can do anything a razor can only better.
Why does Dragonfly Hair Salon prefer shears?
One of our core values is client care, providing the client with a customized and individualized cut. We are not willing to sacrifice our values for the time saving benefits of a razor. In addition we find that even clients with thick and straight hair will develop split ends much more quickly when a razor is used creating the need for a client to return to the salon and have the style reshaped much more often getting shorter with each successive visit. We want you to enjoy your style for as long as possible and a razor does not provide this option.
What if I want a razor cut?
Finally, if you are looking to get a razor cut there are a few things you can do to protect yourself. First, find a stylist that is experienced with the technique and set a consultation only appointment. Ask about the process and what you can expect from the result. Arm yourself with the knowledge you have learned here. Be aware of what hair type you have and know if this technique would be good for you and your hair type by yielding the results you desire. Be prepared to reshape the cut as often as every four weeks because the ends will split and the cut will lose shape quickly. When you go in for reshaping the razor should only be used every other cut at a minimum, but every third cut is more optimal. This that you should not be getting a razor cut every time you go to the salon. If you go in for the reshaping and a razor is used every time you will find that the damage will travel up the shaft and it will be necessary to make the hair shorter each time.
As mentioned above we generally do not use a razor at Dragonfly by Ginger Exclusive Salon, but if that is your request we will provide you with a razor cut as long as your hair type is one that will accommodate the technique. If it is not, we will not razor cut your hair. And we will only reshape the cut with a razor every third visit. However, this does not mean that you cannot leave the salon with exactly the cut your wanted regardless of the razor.